Ronda to Arcos Malaga Itinerary
17km after leaving Ronda along the CC-339, there
is a turn off for Grazalema, but it is recommended to make a detour
in order to get to know Ubrique.
Grazalema (31km from Ronda) lies on a rocky surface surrounded
by lush green vegetation and overlooking magnificent mountain
scenery. In the vicinity there is a forest of Spanish fir, which
is unique in Europe. Grazalema still produces the blankets which
invariably appear in the romantic engravings depicting the bandoleros
or bandits from the neighbouring Ronda Sierra. The most outstanding
buildings are the parish church and the Churches of San Juan and
of Nuestra Señora de la Aurora, where some examples of Baroque
Andalusian imagery are found.
From Grazalema the traveller retraces his steps by taking the
same road as when he arrived. After 4km there is a turn off for
Ubrique via Villaluenga and Benocaz, tow small villages with a
Moorish air, on the right. Ubrique is hemmed in by mountains and
despite the fact that it has grown considerably the upper part
preserves magnificent examples of popular Andalusian architecture
and an old Almohad castle in ruins. Saddlery and leather are the
traditional and still very active crafts in Ubrique.
A forest track leads to the nearby reservoir of Los Hurones via
the Castle of Fatima, another old fortress dating from Muslim
times.
Leaving Ubrique along the way he came, the traveller soon reaches
the fork where the right branch leads to Grazalema and the left
to El Bosque. After 16km along the latter branch, the traveller
is well on their way to Arcos.
There is no doubt that Arcos de la Frontera is an obligatory stopping
place on a visit to the Cadiz Sierra. The town, with a castle
and Santa Maria Church at the top, spreads over a rocky ridge
with the River Guadalete at its foot. The Moorish layout of the
streets and the magnificent Christian buildings turn Arcos into
a good example of the Muslim towns in Andalusia, which were resettled
after their conquest by the noble vassals of the Castilian kings.
From the top, where the fortress stands with the church next to
it, there are an observation platform and a Parador overlooking
an exceptional panorama. The Gothic structure of Santa Maria church
is still preserved despite the successive alterations, which brought
the portal, the Baroque tower and some outstanding features, especially
the main reredos and the choir. A very valuable example of the
Gothic period is the 14C painting of Crowning the Virgin in the
left hand aisle.
San Pedro Church dates from the same time and underwent almost
identical alterations It has only a nave, also in the Gothic style,
and stands on the remains of an old Muslim fortress. It has a
Baroque portal and bell tower as well as a rather remarkable series
of 16C/17C images and paintings.
On a walk through Arcos the traveller will find that the popular
architecture is in perfect harmony with the aristocratic portals
of the convents and palatial houses.