Malaga to Sierra Nevada Itinerary
Between Salobreña and Motril there is the CN-323,
a road which leads to Granada. After leaving behind the bed of
Guadalfeo, the road climbs between slopes coved with almond and
fruit trees and passes through lovely scenery. At a distance of
27km there is the turn off for Lanjaron, the point of departure
of the itinerary through the Upper Alpujarra, which will be described
later on. From this point onward the excursion takes place at
the foot of the Sierra Nevada. (Total length of the trip: 308km.)
Granada (67km from the coast) is one of the most attractive cities
in Spain and visiting is a must when the traveller is on the Costa
del Sol. Both the Nasrid palaces, which belong to the most outstanding
sights of Islamic culture, as well as the Gothic and renaissance
buildings raised after the Christian conquest would individually
justify a much longer journey than the one suggested herein. A
perfectly preserved Moorish area - El Albaicin -, a very pleasant
urban centre and an extremely valuable art treasure are further
weighty arguments in favour of prolonging the visit as much as
possible.
La Alhambra and El Generalife occupy a series of fenced hills
converted into gardens with a really magnificent panorama. A visit
to the halls, rooms and patios (inner courts) - which may be described
as the architecture of pleasure -, to the areas and gardens, where
water is an ever present element in the pools and irrigation channels,
is something the traveller will never forget. Among the Nasrid
buildings there stands an imposing edifice designed in the purest
Italianised Mannerism to serve as a royal residence. This is the
Palace of Carlos V, today a Fine Arts Museum.
A walk includes the added attraction of the magnificent background
consisting of the Sierra Nevada and El Albaicin as well as the
Christian part of Granada city. Inside La Alhambra there is a
Parador, which occupies a convent standing on the site of an Arab
palace.
La Carrera del Darro, a boulevard on the Darro, one of the two
Granada rivers, lies between the towers of La Alhambra and El
Albaicin. The aristocratic western façades along the river on
this side are the boundary of this lovely area, which is almost
a proclamation of urban Muslim architecture. Small, winding streets
climb the slope of El Albaicin between whitewashed houses, cypresses
and palm-trees. The panorama once again fully justifies the pleasant
walk.
La Carrera del Darro gives access to Christian Granada, where
the Cathedral should undoubtedly be visited first. Los Reyes Chapel,
a part of the church, is a magnificent example of Isabelline Gothic:
the sepulchres of the Catholic Monarchs and the main reredos belong
to the Renaissance. The Cathedral as a whole is of the same style
and it is considered a key example of Spanish classicist architecture.
The collections of paintings and sculptures contain very valuable
works of art.
Other sights impossible to omit are San Jeronimo Church, the Royal
Hospital and the sacristy of La Cartuja, the latter being perhaps
the best example of Andalusian Baroque.
On a walk through the centre the traveller discovers areas exclusive
to this city: La Alcaiceria, which is a maze of little, narrow
streets like passageways, Bilbarrambla Square, El Corral del Carbon
and other places of similar attraction.
Outside the city there is yet another place of interest: El Sacromonte,
an area where gypsies have their cave dwellings, some of which
are used as restaurants and for flamenco shows today.
A local road climbs rapidly to a height of 2,500m in the Sierra
Nevada. The skiing resort, the Parador and other facilities have
turned these parts into a crowded place. The same road continues
to climb almost as far as the Veleta, a 3,398m peak, in the vicinity
of the Mulhacen (46km from Granada), which is the highest peak
(3,482m) in the Iberian peninsula. The view from there covers
the whole southern slope of the sierra and the region of Las Alpujarras.
There is a forest track between the Mulhacen and the village of
Capileira, but it is suggested that the traveller take a much
longer, though much safer, route, by which he gets to know the
most fascinating parts of Las Alpujarras, a region which treats
its Moorish inheritance with the utmost care..